The City at Night - Beyoğlu Galata Pera

On this night tour, we’ll once again delve into some deep topics that you’re already partly familiar with regarding the city and its past. Beyoğlu, also known as Pera, is like a movie set created for the Ottomans to get to know the West and for Westerners to understand the Ottomans...

We’ll start exploring the Pera (Beyoğlu) district—where more than 3,000 buildings were reduced to ashes and many landmarks became unusable during the 1870 fire—by gathering in front of Galatasaray High School at 19:00. We’ll listen to the fascinating story that stretches from Mekteb-i Hümayun to Mekteb-i Sultaniye and Galatasaray. As we step inside the Çiçek Pasajı (Cité de Péra), which stands right across from us, we’ll remember this spot and the Maruni Naum Efendi Theater together. We’ll pass through Üç Horan Armenian Church and the European Passage located on Sahne Street, then learn about the history and namesakes of Hazzopulo Passage and Aznavur Passage.

Afterwards, we’ll see Virgin Mary Church. Then, we’ll visit one of the city’s oldest establishments, Rejans, which opened in 1932 and operated without interruption until 2015, located just around the corner. As we return to Istiklal Avenue accompanied by the delicious aroma of Mandabatmaz coffee, we’ll talk for a while about Elhamra Passage on our right, and then cross over to see St. Antoine Church, which is Istanbul’s largest Catholic church. We’ll also have the chance to listen to memories from the days of the Concordia Theater.

Next, we’ll chat a bit about the Mısır Apartment, which almost all of us know or have heard of and is situated right next door. We’ll talk about both the building’s history and the days Mehmet Akif spent here. If we head a bit further down, we’ll see Oda Kule, which, with its modern appearance, stands apart from the old period architecture of Beyoğlu.

Right beside it, we’ll see Surp Harutyun Armenian Church and the Garibaldi building. Next, we’ll spot the consulate buildings of the Netherlands and the Russian Federation across the street. Also across the avenue stands the imposing and architecturally beautiful Suriye Passage, one of Beyoğlu’s most exquisite passages. Then, we’ll see Narmanlı Han—once a gathering place for poets and writers—now freshly restored. Opposite is the Swedish Consulate Building and, at the point where Beyoğlu ends, we’ll talk about the Tunnel and the Mevlevihane, Galata’s first structure.

Together, we’ll ascend the most iconic building of our tour: the Galata Tower. While there, we’ll have detailed conversations about Venice, Genoa, and especially Hezarfen. After our tower visit, we’ll take a break in the area to rest for a while. Then we’ll have the chance to learn about Neve Shalom Synagogue on Bereketzade Avenue from the outside. We’ll also see the Italian Synagogue and the D'Arronco Fountain on Şair Ziya Paşa Avenue. In this area, we’ll catch a glimpse of one of the rare surviving sections of Genoese Waters. We’ll climb back towards the tower and see the English Quarantine Hospital, which was built for British sailors and now serves as an Eye Hospital. Next to it, we’ll see the Austrian St. Georg Hospital and High School.

Behind this area, we’ll have an enjoyable chat about the Ashkenazi Synagogue and the Yüksek Kaldırım. Then we’ll all together see the Kamando Family mansion, which was very important for the Ottomans and Karaköy. We’ll also see the Schneidertempel Synagogue, now used as an art gallery and formerly known as the Tailors’ Synagogue. After a brief photo stop at the aesthetic Kamando Stairs, we’ll show you the Sen Piyer Han. Built in the 18th century, it’s said to be the birthplace of André Chenier, one of the pioneers of the French Revolution. Afterward, we descend to Voyvoda Avenue (Bankers’ Avenue). We’ll learn about the symbolic buildings of the street, especially the old Ottoman Bank (now the Central Bank), İş Bank buildings, and Minerva Han. Then, we’ll introduce Karaköy Square with a wide-angle view from this spot. Next, we’ll see Surp Pırgiç Armenian Catholic Church and the St. Benoit buildings. And, of course, we can’t skip mentioning Zürafa Street while we’re here...

After that, we’ll see buildings such as Surp Lusavoriç Armenian Church and the Saint John Turkish Orthodox Church, exploring Karaköy’s fully renewed streets filled with wonderful new cafes. After sharing our stories about Virgin Mary Church and the Russian Choral Churches, we’ll end our tour around 23:00-23:30 near the Karaköy parking lot.

Until we meet again for another nighttime glimpse of the city…