The City at Night - Cibali Fener Balat

We will begin our tour by meeting at 19:30 in front of the Cibali Tobacco Factory, which is now Kadir Has University. (We recommend reading the food section here:) Right after this historic spot, which holds many important stories from the First Tobacco Monopoly to the song "Fabrika Kızı," we head to Cibali Gate.

We can almost see smiles on all your faces. Yes, the venue named after the famous play that was first staged during Muammer Karaca’s era but remembered by most of us with Nejat Uygur, and we’ll talk about this venue and Cibali Gate. After sharing tales from Byzantium to the present day, we walk through the streets to reach Gül Mosque. We listen to the story of Aya (Haghia) Theodosia Church, a classic yet striking example of Byzantine architecture. Afterwards, we see Aya Gate and Ayakapı Bath, a work by Mimar Sinan. On the way to the Fener district, we’ll also see the buildings called Fener Mansions. The first building in the Fener neighborhood, Maraşlı Greek Primary School, with its story will make you smile. Right after that, we’ll talk about the Fener Greek Patriarchate, sharing some interesting stories from its establishment to this day.

Next, passing through the streets of Fener, we see the spot where the Dimitri Cantemir Palace (Vlah Palace) once stood. We climb the ornate stairs next to it and see the Yovakimyon Girls’ High School building. We will learn about this school, founded through the efforts of Patriarchs II and III Yovakim, and when we turn left down the street, we’ll discuss the unfortunate life of Maria Despina Palaiologina, another fascinating Byzantine princess.

Then, we will see one of the highlights of our tour, the Red High School (Fener Greek Boys’ High School). After admiring this magnificent work by architect Dimadis, a graduate of the same school, we will walk through Fener’s photogenic streets with colorful houses and laundry hanging out, making our way back to the coast road. Here, we will visit Sveti Stefan Bulgarian Church, one of the most intriguing buildings in Istanbul. Afterwards, in the streets of Balat, we’ll share stories on the street where Çana Synagogue, David Eskenazi Clinic, and Leon Brudo’s house are located. At the street’s end, we arrive at Çıfıt Bazaar. In Çıfıt Bazaar, once one of Istanbul’s most cosmopolitan areas, we see Yanbol Synagogue and Agora Tavern. After that, passing by the Ahrida Synagogue, said to have been frequented by Sabetay Sevi, the Rabbi House, and Surp Hreşdagabet Armenian Orthodox Church, we conclude this wonderful tour by sipping well-earned coffees in the Fener district.

Until we meet again in another night view of the city…